Rome was aglow in fresh winter color. The skies
were crisp Roman blue as I set out to do the morning marketing
in Campo de'Fiore. Maria, my ageing vegetable lady, was sparkling
with life as she kissed me and spoke of the "best vegetable
buy of the day". Limes from Mexico, kumquats from China,
beautiful little cabbages from South Africa, iceberg lettuce
from Belgium, red chicory leaves from the Alban hills outside
of Rome and fresh hot peppers from Calabria. I too began to
sparkle with thoughts of "luncheon sugar plum fairies dancing
in my head". Then it happened.
I was crossing the campo, headed toward my favourite
bread shop, when I heard the most delightful music floating
in the air. I had to discover where it was coming from. I followed
the sounds and my quest took me to Piazza Farnese.
There, in front of the palazzo I found a municipal
band of local policemen playing while the chorus in the background
sang Verdi's aria from Nabucco.. "Va Pensiero". I
stopped and gave my entire attention to them and my surroundings.
The lights and sounds were made of the most precious Bohemian
crystal.
Try to imagine the scene. Me in my winter coat,
scarved up to my neck, carrying four enormous white plastic
bags of the week's groceries with Verdi's nationalistic cry
for Italian unity sounding in my fragile and cold ears.
I listened attentively while gazing at Palazzo
Farnese in front of me and my mind began to travel accompanied
by Verdi's music. I saw the Caracci brothers painting the ceilings
with their gorgeous, monumental, mythological frescos, Scarpio
being killed by Tosca in the first floor drawing room and Alexander
Farnese strutting about with Queen Cristina on one arm and on
the other his sister, Julia, "la bella" while waiting
for the Borgia Pope to arrive for a small luncheon party. I
could see the silk brocades and hear the sounds they made. I
could hear the clinking of silver plates in the background as
servants hastily prepared for the Pope's arrival. I could see
the livery men polishing their carriages and sweeping away unwanted
straw.
Tears began to roll down my cheeks as Verdi's
anthem came to it's close. I thought of this country and how
good it has been to me. How lucky I have been to have been able
to have harvested in these Elysian fields for so many years.
I felt fortunate and extremely humble in front of the unseen
Gods. Tears continued to roll as I made my way to the bread
shop on the corner.