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Saturday Morning in Rome

It seems to have been a year of great sentimentality for me. I have found myself on sandy beaches, on boats leaving harbours, on planes returning from some journey or listening to music with tears in my eyes. This morning it happened again.

Rome was aglow in fresh winter color. The skies were crisp Roman blue as I set out to do the morning marketing in Campo de'Fiore. Maria, my ageing vegetable lady, was sparkling with life as she kissed me and spoke of the "best vegetable buy of the day". Limes from Mexico, kumquats from China, beautiful little cabbages from South Africa, iceberg lettuce from Belgium, red chicory leaves from the Alban hills outside of Rome and fresh hot peppers from Calabria. I too began to sparkle with thoughts of "luncheon sugar plum fairies dancing in my head". Then it happened.

I was crossing the campo, headed toward my favourite bread shop, when I heard the most delightful music floating in the air. I had to discover where it was coming from. I followed the sounds and my quest took me to Piazza Farnese.

There, in front of the palazzo I found a municipal band of local policemen playing while the chorus in the background sang Verdi's aria from Nabucco.. "Va Pensiero". I stopped and gave my entire attention to them and my surroundings. The lights and sounds were made of the most precious Bohemian crystal.

Try to imagine the scene. Me in my winter coat, scarved up to my neck, carrying four enormous white plastic bags of the week's groceries with Verdi's nationalistic cry for Italian unity sounding in my fragile and cold ears.

I listened attentively while gazing at Palazzo Farnese in front of me and my mind began to travel accompanied by Verdi's music. I saw the Caracci brothers painting the ceilings with their gorgeous, monumental, mythological frescos, Scarpio being killed by Tosca in the first floor drawing room and Alexander Farnese strutting about with Queen Cristina on one arm and on the other his sister, Julia, "la bella" while waiting for the Borgia Pope to arrive for a small luncheon party. I could see the silk brocades and hear the sounds they made. I could hear the clinking of silver plates in the background as servants hastily prepared for the Pope's arrival. I could see the livery men polishing their carriages and sweeping away unwanted straw.

Tears began to roll down my cheeks as Verdi's anthem came to it's close. I thought of this country and how good it has been to me. How lucky I have been to have been able to have harvested in these Elysian fields for so many years. I felt fortunate and extremely humble in front of the unseen Gods. Tears continued to roll as I made my way to the bread shop on the corner.

 
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